Max Fenns w/ UA
2x Whelp units
Kriel Stone Bearer
Earthborn Dire Troll
All the GF9 dice and tokens and stuff.
All for less than 250$ If you weren't here for the post awhile back talking about getting into Warmachine on a budget, I'm currently practicing what I preach. I'm buying everything above used, and mostly unpainted. I got really lucky, and found a dude that was fed up on trolls and getting out, and had pretty nearly exactly what I wanted. I'm missing Mulg, eDoomy, a Chronicler and a Runebearer, but otherwise, I've got my 2 lists pretty nearly where I want them. I'd like to have Sons of Bragg for eMadrak, but the Champions were the other choice, so it works out.
In other news, my wife bought me an airbrush. It's an Iwata Neo, so we'll be getting into airbrushing in this blog before too long, once I bite the bullet and find a compressor (Or break down and run a tube from my air bubble). I still don't know what color to paint my Trolls, but it's ....probably going to be tan... and brown... but mainly tan...
To the main point of our blog post today though. Magnetizing the Dire Troll kit. I'm a huge advocate of magnetizing whenever possible. It's basically saving you 60$. The downside, especially with an organic model like the Mauler, is that the seams inbetween parts are still fairly visible, e.g., specifically the troll's back. It's worth 60$ to me though, so let's go.
Break open the kit. We have a lot of parts. The first thing I'm going to do is pick out what I want, and glue what isn't moving. The two major things I'm not keeping is 1. The whelp from the bomber pack. It's ugly, useless, and a pain to magnetize, though it's probably easier than the gun dude. 2. The angled forearm. The left arm has two options for the forearm. A 90 degree that matches the right one, and a straighter one. For variation, I'm taking the straighter one.
Next, I'm gluing the legs together, and to the main body. I'm gluing both upper arms. Then because I'm doing a tutorial for you guys, I'm laying them out in a pretty picture, and accidentally previewing my unbased Kithkar, and the bases for my Axer and eMadrak.
You'll notice right away that the back panels do Not like sliding into their spot when the torso is glued into the pants. The main culprit here is the belt buckle. You can cut this if you like, but I'm leaving it. Instead, I'm cutting most of the insert off. In the picture above, you can see the bomber back vs. the mauler back, and I've cut most of the insert off of the mauler back. It's still kind of a pain, but it's doable to slip the back in now.
Now let's magnetize the easy stuff first. The neck is recessed enough that I don't really have to hollow it out any. You can a little bit if you'd like to, but it's not necessary. If you do hollow it out, I'm using a 3/8 drill bit in a dremel. It's the size of my smallest magnet, and I can use it in a circular mixing motion to widen it out to whatever magnet I want to use.
What I actually do is drop some glue in the back of the recess, and press a little ball of green stuff in there. Add a little (little) glue to the ball, and press your magnets in. This is the tricky part here. Sticking magnets in holes is really hard. I like to leave them on the stick of magnets they came on. Push it in, seperate them at 2 magnets thick in the hole with an exacto knife, and then press a head in. This will push the magnets in as far as needed, in the position needed. Now, theoretically, you securely glued the back magnet, but didn't get any glue on the front magnet, thereby glueing it to the back one. I'm not that lucky. Generally, once I've got them pressed in, I'll pry the front magnet out with the exacto and let the back one dry in place.
Now, for some reason, my Bomber head has a shorter neck and fits in there like a champ. My Blitzer and Mauler head have a bit longer neck and stick out a bit. I'm not worried about it, but if you are, cut the neck short like the Bomber and call it a day.
To the right arm! Right arm is the same exact process as the head. Glue, greenstuff, glue, press magnets, try to pull your fingers apart. Normally I don't greenstuff the plastic joints unless I'm trying to hide seams, simply because glue adheres to the resin waaay better than the metal. In this case though, I want to make sure the magnets are secure.
The left arm is a bit trickier. It doesn't have that recess (unless you went with the 90 degree arm). Power up the dremel! Again, 3/8 bit. I like to start on the low setting, and kinda scratch the surface a bit till I have about the right size of hole marked for the magnet. Start in the center, circle out from there in a stirring motion. You're beating eggs right now. Flip the dremel to high speed and carve out that hole. The hand insert fits flush into the the indent in the wrist, so you want to carve out a whole about 2 magnets deep.
If you did really good, don't worry about the green stuff, just press the magnet in on top of some glue and call it a day. Try really hard to keep magnets lined up though, it's really easy to forget which polarity is facing out until you try to put your Avenger's gun on his wrist, right before the tournament. You can usually hover close with the magnets and find out which way you've got it facing, but if you do it before the glue is set, you're going to suck the magnet out.
For the hands, simply glue magnets to the face of the wrist, with a teeny bit of greenstuff in the middle for adhesion. And they're done. Keep it simple.
The back is more complicated, but easier than I thought. The difficult part is figuring out the angle to slide it in at. Mine also don't fit perfectly, so there's a tiiiiny gap where the top of the back meets my mauler's neck. Normally I'd greenstuff that, but for a magnetized kit, no can do. So. Stack two magnets on the top sheld of the torso, gluing the bottom one.
Now dryfit both backs and make sure there's room to sit on top of those magnets just fine. Mine both have enough room, but my mauler back sits a little low.
Greenstuff! Add a bit to the top of the back panel where the magnets you have on the torso will meet it. Glue the greenstuff in, add a little bit of glue for the magnet, and set it in the back again on top of the magnet. The goal here is to glue the magnet in the appropriate place, fitted into the back so everything is lined up, and NOT gluing both magnets to eachother. Should look like this when you're done.
With both of them done, we now have this.
We're almost there. Our heads are good, backs are good, hands are good. The remaining piece is the Blitzer gun. If it weren't for the tutorial, I probably wouldn't even worry about the Blitzer. In fact, I'd glue the mauler back in place and when I want the bomber, I'd swap hands and heads. But that's me. Maybe I'll do that after this. Who knows?
...I probably will. It's a good idea... I have 0 use for a Blitzer, but then I'd find out "Oh, hey, I need a Blitzer for the new Warlock." and it's too late... Meh.
Anyways. Blitzer gun. Drill straight into the top of the barrel thing on the Bomber/Blitzer back panel. Two magnets deep. Glue a magnet way in the bottom, pressing it in with a toothpick or something, and glue the other magnet to the bottom of the Blitzer. Mines too for forward and doesn't allow the feet to sit, but since I'm probably never using it...
And we're done with the magnets! Let me turn on the dining room light, set this bad boy up on last night's game of Zombiecide and see what we think.
I really like it. It was actually easier than a Cygnar jack. The Jacks require every hole recessed by a dremel. The downside though is that a magnetized jack normally has regular joints and gaps, and doesn't flow like an organic model does (e.g., the troll's back) so it looks way better magnetized than a Troll does. The plus side is that I didn't spend another 30$ - 60$ on another Troll.
I hope this has been instructional and helpful for you. Once the Airbrush is figured out, we'll base and paint this guy. I need to paint my Axer and Madrak first though, figure out my scheme exactly, and push on from there. Again, hope you enjoyed this.
Oh, and go watch the Lego movie. It's good.